It was a dark and blustery evening when I went along to the Warrington in Maida Vale, one of Gordon Ramsay's latest eateries. The pub has been in the heart of this smart residential area at 93 Warrington Crescent since 1857, and it still retains the traditional pub decor with dark wooden tables and chairs, ornate lamps and stained glass windows. In fact, it was such a typical looking pub with posters for quiz nights on the walls, it looked more like a place where I would be served a beaf burger and chips rather than grilled sirloin rustled up by one of Ramsay's chefs, and I thought I had come to the wrong place. The barman soon dampened down my concerns and directed me upstairs.

As I mounted the steps, the noisy hub of the crowded pub dissipated and I entered the tranquillity of the restaurant, which couldn't be more opposite in the decor to the pub downstairs. Here, the place is light and airy decorated in soft neutral tones with well spaced out mahogany tables and light olive leather high back chairs, with jazz playing softly in the background.

The Italian maitre d' Lucas welcomed us, and took my companion and I through the menu with all of his Continental charm and expertise. The menu, which has been devised by Ramsay, is not large, but there is just enough choice to satisfy everyone from the vegetarian to the staunch meat eater.

For starters, I plumped for the twice baked Dorset cheddar and onion souffle (£8.50) which was light and the cheese had the right intensity to be totally delicious. My companion went for the white onion soup with rosemary which he said was a much lighter version of the traditional French onion soup (£6).

The main dishes were what you would expect to be offered in a gastro-style pub but with a quirky little added something. My pan-fried fillet of bream with cockles, mussels and leeks was a fusion of flavours that worked so well together (15.95). My companion's choice of braised leg of Goosnargh duck with gratin dauphinois and beetroot chutney (£16.50) was a definite hit with him. The duck was very tender and coupled with the unusual accompaniment of beetroot chutney gave it that added twist which makes a meal special.

The desserts were the usual gastro delights - Bakewell tart, sticky toffee pudding, chocolate truffle doughnuts. I chose vanilla panna cotta with poached champagne rhubarb which was light and delicious. The wine list included wines from Europe and New Age and went from basic prices to £125, and Lucas was eager to help in choosing the right wine to go with our meal.

The place was busy with thirty-somethings and local couples having a relaxing and fun time, and the service was impeccable. Even though it is Gordon Ramsay's place, it is not a bit ostentatious but very laid back. The Warrington is a restaurant with Ramsay's stamp on it - with the food, service and decor but at prices that won't make you choke on your starter.

The Warrington, 93 Warrington Crescent, W9 1EH Telephone: 020 7592 7960