Bills Restaurant stands out even amongst all the other bars and restaurants in St Albans city centre. A riot of overflowing plants decorate the frontage and a glimpse through the large windows reveals glittering chandeliers and a quirky collection of artfully distressed antiques.

It was clear from the moment we walked in on a busy Friday evening that this is a popular spot – and, in fact, our former reporter Jenny Desborough gave the restaurant an enthusiastic review when she visited Bills soon after it opened with a new look in February 2018. Following a change of menu, I was invited along to see if anything else had changed.

The interior is an eclectic mix of industrial and antique styles, with mirrors in gilt frames, threadbare rugs and velvet sofas, plus exposed brick walls and metal lampshades. It might sound like an odd mix, but the combination is disarmingly cosy, and I can see it as the perfect spot to spend hours kicking back on the comfy sofas, drink in hand, catching up with friends.

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The menu, too, is an intriguing mix of styles, with everything from fried halloumi to fish and chips, from a ‘glow bowl’ (beetroot and quinoa cake) to a hamburger with rosemary salted chips. They also have dinner specials every day, ‘from 5pm until they’re gone’, which include chicken green curry on Thursdays and slow-cooked lamb shank on Saturdays. There’s something here to suit every taste, whether vegetarian, vegan or meat-eater.

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Being the latter, I opted for the devilled chicken skewers (£6.75) for starters. Not being a fan of particularly spicy food, I was a little worried about the ‘devilled’ part of the description, but the spice was more of a gentle buzz than a burn, and the cooling and creamy tzatziki perfectly complemented the lightly charred chicken.

Next came our mains – a buttermilk chicken burger (£12.95) the size of a child’s head for my friend, and pan fried seabass (£15.95) for me. The fish was perfectly cooked, soft and flaky with crispy skin, and though the addition of avocado might seem odd it added the perfect amount of creaminess to the herb rösti that accompanied it.

Both my friend and I were intrigued by the lemon meringue pie in a glass (£6.75) for dessert. With a crushed biscuit base, lemon curd cheesecake and lemon sorbet topped with Italian meringue, it was tangy and sweet and the perfect end to the meal.

The staff were friendly and ready to help with a smile, attentive but unobtrusive, and the atmosphere was welcoming and relaxed. I could see it as the perfect spot for a Friday night date, lunch with friends or a family dinner.

Bills, 2 Chequer Street, St Albans, AL1 3XZ. Details: 01727 851436