Biggest show on earth

Cruising along the silver-green river on the Nile Ritz, one of many "floating hotels," and stopping off to visit great antiquities for a few days fast becomes an addiction. It is the biggest show on earth, as Egypt has the oldest history in the world.

With stringent security in place at main tourist sites since the terrorist attacks two years ago, upwards of 200,00 Brits are flooding back annually, hooked on ruins.

Boarding your luxury cruiser off Luxor's High Street, since the Nile runs right through, first call is Karnak Temple; so vast and overpowering it's considered to be Egypt's grandest monument.

The largest "Court" is huge enough to house the Notre Dame Cathedral in Paris. There are also sacred lakes, chapels and sphinx-lined avenues that stretch for three kilometres.

A nightly Sound and Light show, backed with the voices of Judi Dench and Richard Burton, tells the haunting story of the Pharaohs under the stars, which conveys the drama of the times.

The hour to see Luxor Temple is at sunset, when the floodlights go on and the warm stone turns to pink. Immensely appealing, Luxor Temple was less important than Karnak, only being used for the New Year's pageant honouring the chief God, Amon, represented as a frisky gentleman with many phallic symbols carved in the murals.

Back on board after our first dose of culture, it's a buffet supper followed by a belly-dancing show and the opportunity to mingle with your companions from the four corners of the world.

Next day, intoxicated by the sun and ancient rocks, we head for the Valley of the Kings and descend into tombs filled with wonderful paintings of birds, animals and lovely goddesses, still rich in colour after 3,000 years.

After dinner it's Bingo night or relaxing on deck and a gentle cruise up river to visit Queen Hatshepsut's elegant temple, said to be one of the finest buildings in the world. It is very beautiful.

Then it's Galabiyya night. Long traditional robes, turbans and Fez hats with curls attached are worn and can be hired on the boat if you haven't brought your outfit.

There's an oriental feast followed by heavy dancing - mostly - in trainers to thumping Egyptian music. It is terrific fun and everyone has to be encouraged to get some rest before the next day's tour.

Aswan, next stop, is Egypt's most southerly town on the Nile, with a touch of Africa and sand dunes. The people are a melting pot of all shades and tribes and at the compact market and bazaar, cottons, leather goods, silks and brass are the treasures to find and bring home.

A beautiful and laid-back town among islands, Aswan has been and still is the favourite haunt of many world-leaders.

Agatha Christie stayed at the Old Cataract Hotel, writing her thrillers, while her archaeologist husband was working elsewhere.

Nothing beats a Felucca ride at sunset to enjoy the beauty of Aswan; the waters are full of these graceful boats that glide like waterbirds and can be used as transport.

Take one to the island of Philae or go by motorboat to see the bewitching Temple of Isis with its sculpted figures surrounded by blue sea and return later for the Sound and Light show, which is spectacular on an island setting.

The Island of Plants, given to Consul-General Kitchener for his military exploits in the Sudan, is public property now for garden lovers. A passionate collector, Kitchener imported plants and seeds from far and wide. The lush gardens with many flowers and a variety of trees invites hours of lingering if there's time.

A year ago, the Nubia Museum, built by UNESCO and devoted entirely to the history and civilization of these fine people, was opened in Aswan. A magnificent building, high on a hill, the collection of statuary, artifacts and mummies is a must for anyone visiting the area.

A spanking new airport is now operating in Aswan and flights to Luxor take half an hour.

Bustling and lively, Luxor is a large town with many horse-drawn buggies vying for custom day and night. Hotels range from the simple to five-star luxury, and there are many restaurants, souks and bazaars that stay open until the early hours. For night birds there is always "a show" somewhere and a taxi to bring you home.

On the way into Luxor town, the road sign says "Seven thousand years of civilization are looking at you", so Luxor's Museum, situated halfway between Karnak and Luxor Temple, is a must with its statuary and relics from Tutankhamun's tomb.

The Museum of Mummification (across the road) and the only one of its kind in the world, shows how the nobles were mummified, complete with an assortment of instruments.

Last but not least, Queen Nefertari's tomb in the Valley of the Queens can be seen for the hefty sum of £20, for just ten minutes.

Entry is limited to 150 people daily to protect this magnificent tomb in which the walls are covered with wonderful pictures, still retaining their original colours. Queen Nefertari, wife of Ramses II, who was known as "Beautiful Face" and "Pretty with the Feathers," has a place of honour with her husband in the Karnak Temple.

People return time and again to Egypt. There is always another tomb or temple they haven't seen, or one they need to see again. They also come for the warmth of the Egyptian people. And the food and ice-cream are pretty good too.

FACT FILE

Travel: Sylvia travelled with British Airways Holidays. A 14-night tailor-made trip to Egypt costs from approximately £794 approx per person. Price includes return scheduled flights with Egyptair to Luxor, seven nights at the Luxor Hilton, including breakfast, four nights on board the Presidential Cruise from Luxor to Aswan on a full-board basis and three nights at the Aswan Oberoi, including breakfast. All transfers are included, plus internal flights from Aswan to Luxor. Reservations: British Airways Holidays (0870 24 24 245). Sylvia was also assisted by the Egyptian Tourist Authority (Telephone: 0171 493 5282; Fax: 0171 408 0295).

Recommended reading: Egypt, Cadogan; The Rough Guide to Egypt; Insight Guide to Egypt; Berlitz, Egypt; AA Guide Essential Egypt; "Lonely Planet," Egypt.

Reproduced from Limited Edition magazine, exclusive guides to living in Hertfordshire, Middlesex and the London Borough of Barnet (01923 216295).