CHIPPERFIELD, over the years, has been the venue for market trading, cockfighting, bare-fist boxing and cricket. I made my way through the glorious woodlands of the Common: beech, holly, Scots pine, sweet cherry, the latter reputedly imported by Edward I after the Crusades. The path led to the Apostles' Pond, once fished by Dominican friars. Today's muddy waters seem an improbable place to seek out dinner.

The path follows the perimeter of the woods, where a plaque on a gatepost heralds arrival at the "Sarratt Parish Footpath". I headed for Commonwood, crossing a field where friendly horses, tormented by flies, paused briefly from their grazing, expecting a pat.

After crossing open country, I emerged on the road near Sarratt. Once the home of straw-plaiting, the village boasted a saddlery, forges, and a wheelwrights (now the Cricketers pub).

Sarratt stands on an old drovers' route; there were ponds where the animals could drink, inns where the drovers could drink.

I passed through woodland and over a huge meadow, Holy Cross church a sure guide. At a distance, it doesn't look like a church; the saddleback roof is set transverse to the chancel and nave, a rare feature. Not so rare is the Hertfordshire puddingstone at the base of the tower, proof of its undoubted strength.

Ahead lay the Chess valley, distant fields yellow after harvest, and a million trees lining the valley floor. At the footbridge, tall reeds lined the riverbank, and the sky was reflected perfectly in the slow-moving waters. This is a place for artists.

Chenies was Isenhampstede until 1232. It changed when it became the seat of the Cheyne family. Sir John Cheyne was 80 when he married for the second time, and died, aged 100. Not a bad innings.

The village is described as "one of the loveliest in England", which, on arrival at the little village green, surrounded by ancient houses, it is seen to be. The old water pump is inoperable now, but a water tap is handy. Fill your canteen see later for the reason. The Manor dates from Henry VIII, and in 1570 Queen Elizabeth I visited, a guest of the Duke of Bedford.

A path leads between the Manor House and church, passing steeply through beechwoods to the main road where, nearby, a mill has stood by the Chess since the 12th century. It was used as a fulling mill for cleaning cloth, then for paper making, finally for grinding corn. Today, the normally tranquil river crashes angrily beneath the mill, before resuming its serene journey to the Colne.

After Mill Farm, a right of way turns north into Baldwin's Wood. The track becomes very narrow, and even after a dry spell is deep with mud. I emerged from the woods with boots weighing half a ton! If, as advised, you filled up at the tap in Chenies, now is the time to wash at least some of it away.

Flaunden Church was the first to be designed by Sir George Gilbert Scott, and replaced a former church, now in ruins, by the Chess. My arrival coincided with a violent thunderstorm, from which the porch provided ideal shelter. I counted the seconds between the lightning and the thunderclaps. There weren't many! When at last the rain eased and I was able to flee to the Green Dragon, I found myself entrapped in the pub when, once again, the heavens opened. There was nothing for it but to sit tight.

The pub was once the local of the Nazi, Von Ribbentrop, who was executed, and the spy, Guy Burgess, who was not. I hope my name is not enshrined with theirs in future journals.

After my prolonged (and unscheduled) visit to the Green Dragon, I took the rights of way across sodden fields and through dripping woodland back to Chipperfield. Land here was once owned by the Carters, ancestors of Jimmy Carter, 39th president of the United States, and in St Paul's Church, the chancel is situated at the west end, a condition laid down by John Parsley, of the Manor House, so he wouldn't have quite so far to walk. Bully for him!

Routefinder

Start and Finish: Chipperfield Common

Abbreviations

l = left; r = right;. n. s. e. w. = north, south, east, west; br. = bridge; r.o.w. = right of way; PH = public house; m = mile s/post = signpost; f/post * fingerpost; b/way = bridleway; ch = church; c/yard = churchyard.

Head s.e. by cricket pitch, into woods at f/p "Heritage Trail", to Apostles' Pond | Beyond, turn r in 0.5m to 5-barred gate | Turn l, Sarratt Parish Footpath to oak in field, follow left arrow and r.o.w. to Sarratt | Turn r at s/post to Dawes Common, thru' field into wood, arrows on trees | Paths diverge, take left option | Follow r.o.w. to Holy Cross ch | Recross stile out of c/yard, follow holly hedge to s/post, Chenies | Cross br over Chess, take "Footpath 15", then take immediate r across 2nd stile, bearing l. over meadow and along lane to Chenies | Head north between Manor House and ch | DANGER! Path emerges at road, cross, and then cross the Chess | Past Mill Farm, turn l towards Latimer | After 0.5m turn r thru' Baldwin's Wood | Turn r to Martin's Top Farm, then l to Flaunden ch | Turn r on the rd for Green Dragon PH (200 yds) | Return to ch, turn r along rd 100 yds and follow r.o.w. to Venus Hill, where turn r | At T-junction, head e by Hatton House, l into woods beyond Hollow Hedge, for Chipperfield.

Pubs: Recommended (en route) - any at Chenies; the Green Dragon, Flaunden.

Distance: Approximately 8.5 miles

Reproduced from Limited Edition magazine, exclusive guides to living in Hertfordshire, Middlesex and the London Borough of Barnet (01923 216295).

For a printable map of the walk, please click the image below.