WHEATHAMPSTEAD dates back to 100 BC, when the ancient tribe, the Catuvellauni, settled here. Later it was Watamstede, and in 1617, The Bull public house appeared. The River Lea flows serenely by, unconcerned by man's slow development of the village.

The Lea Valley Walk leads to Lemsford. I saw no one until I reached a footbridge and ford, where a woman tried to coax her recalcitrant dog from the river. Sadly for her, but happily for him, he was having too much fun to do as he was told.

Entering the Brocket Estate, the path climbs through glorious woods. Oak, beech, holly, birch are all here, their ancient roots exposed where over the years rain has washed away the soil. Still they thrive. Further on the right of way crosses the golf course, where care is needed in avoiding being struck by little white missiles.

I pressed on for Lemsford, where a century ago the London stage stopped over, and where troops were billeted during the Boer War. Their song about the mill there became famous "There's an old mill by the stream Nellie Dean".

Today, the mill is an office complex.

I retraced steps to the Brocket Estate, veering left for views of the Hall and bridge, the latter built in 1772. You still need to keep an eye out for flying golf balls, driven by golfers who shun the opportunity to exercise, choosing instead to ride around the course in electric buggies.

Two Prime Ministers, Lord Melbourne and Lord Palmerston died here. Lord Melbourne's wife was the novelist Lady Caroline Lamb, who became so "passionately infatuated" with Lord Byron they tried to keep his death from her by preventing her seeing his funeral cortege as it passed by.

The right of way emerges at Ayot Green, where the unseen A1(M) in a cutting is a reminder of today's traffic. The noise was present still as I sat by the green which, bordered by fine oaks and horsechestnuts, nevertheless maintains its charm. The old and the new, side by side. The cottages here were once the homes of farm labourers.

A quiet road leads to Ayot St Peter, the church steeple a sure guide. The foundation stone was laid in 1875 by Lady Cowper (not Lord Cowper as it says!). It's Ayot's fourth church the last was struck by lightning.

Beyond the church, rights of way lead over pleasant countryside to Ayot St Lawrence, where refreshments can be taken at the Brocket Arms before going on to view the old Gothic church opposite. It's ruinous now, thanks to Sir Lyonel Lyde, former Lord of the Manor, who decided to have it pulled down because it spoiled his view! The Bishop took out an injunction to prevent its destruction, too late to stop the removal of the roof. They're still proud of the old church at Ayot, as present-day scaffolding testifies. The plot of grass at the front serves as a memorial garden.

Sir Lyonel, meanwhile, had a new church built in a Palladian style. It stands isolated in a field. Evidently he and his wife never got on, so they're buried in separate mausoleums, one each side of the church. One might wonder how many people might, if they could, desire the same arrangement. Or am I being cynical?

Just down the road from the church is the former home of George Bernard Shaw. He died here in 1950, aged 94. Shaw had a shed built in the garden, where he did his writing. The shed could be turned to face the sun, and still can be by visitors who can view Shaw's pens, spectacles and writing materials, all in situ. His work fills 33 volumes, and he wrote ten letters a day for 75 years.

A good path leads through woods to the Hertfordshire Way, and the golf course at Lamerwood Country Club, whose members, unlike their counterparts at Brocket Hall, crossed the fairways on foot! Heading south, I rejoined the Lea Valley Walk, returning by the quiet Lea to Wheathampstead.

Before diving into The Bull for that well-earned pint, do visit St Helen's Church. It stands on the site of a former Saxon church, another piece of Wheathampstead's ancient past.

Routefinder

Start and Finish: Car Park, East Lane, Wheathampstead. Behind the Bull public house

Abbreviations: l. = left. r. = right. n. s. e. w. = north, south, east, west. br. = bridge. r.o.w. = right of way. PH = public house m. = mile. s/post = signpost.

f/post = fingerpost. b/way = bridleway ch. = church c/yard = churchyard.

E. along East Lane, past Leeside Centre. Cross f/br. Take Lea Valley Walk (signs: 3 swans) via Brocket Estate to Lemsford Mill. Retrace steps 100 yards to yellow arrow. Brocket Estate. Taking r.o.w. left to bridge. Head n. on metalled rd. following f/posts across golf course and through woods to The Waggoners PH. Follow rd. to Ayot St Peter. Beyond, turn l. at double-bend sign, r.o.w. w. across field, turn r. on rd, l. by Tamarisk Cottage on bridleway to Ayot St Lawrence. Pass ruined ch., turn r. (field) to new church. Retrace steps to rd., turn r. to Shaw's Corner. Continue s. on Wheathampstead Road. Turn r. next to gate marked "Private". Take r.o.w. through woods from which, emerging, take l. f/path "the Hertfordshire Way". Follow for short distance into woods, where turn l. through large metal gates to golf course. At car park adjacent 10th tee, head s. to entrance, "Lamerwood Country Club". Cross main rd, follow path to Lea Valley Walk. Retrace steps to Wheathampstead.

Pubs

Wheathampstead: The Bull

Lemsford: Sun Inn, Long Arm and Short Arm.

Ayot Green: the Waggoners

Ayot St Lawrence: The Brocket Arms

Reproduced from Limited Edition magazine, exclusive guides to living in Hertfordshire, Middlesex and the London Borough of Barnet (01923 216295).

For a printable map of the walk, please click the image below.