TO THE Saxons it was Agmodesham; the Normans called it Elmondesham, and today it's Amersham.

The town's 17th Century market hall was the start of my walk, but first I crossed the Misbourne and climbed to the Martyr's Memorial, erected to the memory of six men and one woman burned at the stake in the 16th Century for their right of religious liberty.

The climb affords extensive views of the lovely Misbourne valley. Prominent are the former manor house, Shardeloes; St Mary's church tower, and Tesco's, the old blending in nicely with the new. It's as well, for it would be sacrilege to mar this place, where the timber-framed buildings of High Street remain much as they have for centuries, old coaching inns and, near the Eagle, almshouses built for the relief of six poor widows.

The South Bucks Way runs along the valley, where the smell of newly-harvested crops blended with the sunshine of a lovely autumn day. Further on, the four-pillared portico of Shardeloes proudly overlooks the extensive lake. The former house was visited by Queen Elizabeth I, who was entertained by Mr and Mrs Tothill, who had 33 children. I suppose asking Her Majesty to baby-sit would have been out of the question.

I wonder if the Virgin Queen took the trouble to walk down to the river and look up, as I did, at the house on the hillside. If so, she would have seen much the same scene as today: the old manor, backed by fine trees and, hopefully, a clear blue sky, while disinterested cattle lazed close by. The latter are, incidentally, a reason to stop before admiring the view, take my word for it.

Little Missenden has lovely cottages grouped around a tiny green, and the Red Lion, a convenient stopover along the way. There is also the Church of St John the Baptist. A leaflet tells you that when you stand on the white slab in the centre of the nave you are standing in the nave of an originally Saxon church, that the stone step at the vestry door is over 1,000 years old, and that one of the church bells rang out at the time of Chaucer's birth in the 14th century.

I headed south now, the path unexpectedly leading to an ancient byway, bordered by hedgerows of holly and beech, a scene from the middle ages right here in the new millennium. It wasn't apparent on the map, proving you have to get out and explore on foot to find what England's rights of way have to offer. I walked through a tunnel formed by old branches and green foliage, with neither sight nor sound of anything of the modern world around me, and continued unhindered a further mile to Beamond End where I crossed the A404, returning to the present day.

Penn Wood is magnificent, although you might get lost in locating Holy Trinity Church. Don't expect its tall spire to act as your guide: Chiltern beechwoods obliterate everything, including churches. But who would care about direction in such lovely surroundings? And, if you do go astray, there is always the Squirrel pub at Penn Street for well-earned refreshments after visiting the war memorial on the green, of course.

Rights of way led across fields to Woodrow Farm, with old machinery on view, a plough, a steam traction engine and more and ultimately to a field where a sign announced the presence of a bull, together with an invitation to keep out. It's OK, the path heads off through woods to Coleshill where another sign, "Quality Manure For Sale" awaits.

The Misbourne valley lies directly ahead now, as you traverse Gore Hill, the site of a battle in 921 between the Vikings and Danes.

Sadly, the hillside has been desecrated by the removal of hedgerows, thus creating a prairie-like landscape. Still, there's always the feel of a sense of history at being in such a place. Imagine it: the clash of steel as men fought face to face, right here. If you've time, return to High Street, where the water pump at the Market Hall bears the date: 1785. Quite recent, really.

Approximate distance: 8 miles

Start and Finish: Market Hall, High Street, Amersham Old Town

Route

Old Town, Martyrs' Memorial; High Street; Misbourne valley; Little Missenden; Beamond End; Penn Street; Coleshill; Gore Hill

Abbreviations

l.=left. r.=right. n. s. e. w.=north, south, east, west. br.=bridge r.o.w.=right of way. PH=pub m.=mile s/post=signpost f/post=fingerpost b/way=bridleway ch.=church f/p=footpath

Directions

Through Memorial Gardens, climb hill to Martyr's Memorial. Return to Market Hall. Along High Street, turn l up Cherry Lane (near the Swan). 100 yds turn r. at stile, cross fields, cross A413 and stile opposite, bear r. to metalled road (Shardeloes) at 2 gatehouses. Follow South Bucks Way to Little Missenden ch. Head s. towards Holmer Green, cross stile leaving village, cross fields to b/way to Beamond End. Cross A404 into Penn Wood, fork l, to Holy Trinity ch. (steeple) and Penn Street. Turn l. past Squirrel PH, take r.o.w. to woods (do not enter), turn l. to A404 which cross, cont. on rd opposite 100 yds, turn r. to Woodrow Farm. Head s, re-cross A404, pass through woods and take f/p to Coleshill. Turn l. along Manor Way. Leaving village, cont. down Gore Hill for Amersham Old Town

Pubs

Amersham Old Town: lots

Little Missenden: Crown, Red Lion

Reproduced from Limited Edition magazine, exclusive guides to living in Hertfordshire, Middlesex and the London Borough of Barnet (01923 216295).

For a printable map of the walk, please click the image below.