I begin my walk into Romeland and wander down Fishpool Street which turns towards St Michael’s Village; its elevated pavements and numerous former coaching inns remind me that it is one of the oldest roads in the city and one of the stops on the principle medieval routes in and out of St Albans to London.

According to antique maps, St Albans originally grew up around the north, east, and west sides of the Abbey extending around the Market Place, along St Peter’s Street, Holywell Street, High Street, and Fishpool Street, all of which apparently existed by the 11th century. With such a long and varied history, I’m not at all surprised that this city is a source of pride and enjoyment to its residents and attracts so many visitors.

This historic district is very picturesque, and even on a cloudy day, the red brick and flower baskets that hang from the timber frames exude a warmth and brightness. Many buildings date from the 16th and 17th centuries and there is still an intricate mix of Georgian, Tudor, Neo-classical and Victorian architecture. By the end of the sixties, it had become a conservation area with over 70 listed buildings, a phenomenally high concentration in a single street.

I absorb the old-world charm of the rows of snug cottages, only two floors high and freshly painted in white; the doorways and brightly decorated front doors in unique colours with shiny door knockers and letter boxes, each one exuding its own distinctive character.

Originally, Fishpool Street is believed to owe its name to fishponds which provided a livelihood for the Saxon residents of Kingsbury. It follows the higher ground on the north bank of the River Ver.

Always a very busy street, there were once several straw hat-making factories dating from the 17th century, with many shops and as many as 14 pubs in the street, offering good beer and a welcoming atmosphere. One of St Albans’ 40 war memorials is situated here, recording the names of residents killed in the First World War.

Described as one of the main jewels in the crown of St Albans and given its proximity to Verulamium Park, the Cathedral and River Ver, makes it the perfect setting. Huge cedar trees in the distance create an attractive vista from St Michael’s churchyard. Further down the street is St Michaels Manor Hotel, a stately manor house dating back to the 1500s, overlooking a tranquil lake with five acres of beautifully manicured gardens (apparently, it has a ceiling that dates from Elizabethan times) and is the perfect location for a wedding, or to impress your guests with an afternoon tea.

The Lower Red Lion pub, the only remaining pub on the street, sells real ale, holds weekly quiz nights and even 17th bed and breakfast; its main building dates back to the seventeenth century. Strangely there are no turnings out of Fishpool Street. I don’t think I’d like to meander home at night, all alone, after a pint or two through this apparently haunted thoroughfare! Although I wouldn’t mind waking up in this location and looking out onto the magnificence of the Abbey while enjoying breakfast in bed.

I’d love to go on a historic city guided tour to find out more about the scandals and sinister events that took place over the centuries within this old street documented to be here since the mid-1200s. The question remains, how did this street, so steeped in history and once a major coaching route up to the 18th century, gradually degenerate into a 19th century slum before transforming into the fashionable and prime residential area that we see today?

  • Marisa Laycock moved to St Albans in 2000. She enjoys sharing her experiences of living in the city. These columns are also available as podcasts from 92.6 FM Radio Verulam at www.radioverulam.com/smallcitylife